They say chicken soup is Jewish medicine, but I think I slurped down the next best thing for lunch last week, a Peruvian fish soup called chilcano.
I know. Fish sounds more stinky than comforting. But at Sabor a Peru, just a hop, skip and a jump across from the New Times office, not even a hint of fishyness exists in its fish broth — steamy hot and light with a hint of garlic, and slices of cooked red onion and cubes of corvina that settle to the bottom and beg for you to scoop them up. Just remember to catch the melted parsley leaves and scallions, and cancha (fried corn kernels) with your spoon on the way up.
When you go, the ceviche de mariscos is also really yummy and features limey leche de tigre-cured seafood with a slab of cooked sweet potato and nub of a hominy cob to cool your tongue down if you ask for it to come picante. The mussles, squid and shrimp are perfectly cooked by the citrus liquid. The octopus is a little tough.
Both come with a delictable green chile sauce on the side, aji verde. It’s a creamy emulsification of jalapenos and cilantro with a heat that sneaks up on you only after several seconds. It’s addictive. So a good thing that they give you as much as you want free of charge: It’s a table condiment and also available to go in little plastic containers.
2923 Biscayne Blvd
Miami, FL 33137-4121