A Summer for Irish Times

Well, it’s complete as it’s gonna get… for now.  See you on Instagram, and then on the flip side!


Time Difference
UTC = EST + 5

SUNDAY 20 JULY (Miami/Chicago)

American Airlines 1342
Miami (MIA) – July 20, 2014 10:20 AM
Travel Time : 3 h 15 m
Chicago (ORD) – July 20, 2014 12:35 PM

American Airlines 92
Chicago (ORD) – July 20, 2014 06:35 PM
Travel Time : 7 h 25 m

MONDAY 21 JULY (Dublin)

Dublin (DUB) – July 21, 2014 08:00 AM

Kellys Hotel
36 South Great Georges Street
Dublin, D2

Guinness Storehouse
Fallon & Byrne (food hall)
L. Mulligan Grocer (gastropub)  18 Stoneybatter; 353-1-670-9889; lmulligangrocer.com. Dinner for two, without drinks or tip, is about 50 euros, or $65 at $1.31 to the euro.
777 (Dinner/Bar) 7 castle house, south great George’s street


The Fumbally (coffee/breakfast) Fumbally Ln, Dublin 8, Ireland
Trinity College (Book of Kells)
Damson Diner (lunch) 52 William Street South, Dublin 2
Royal Hibernian Academy (art) 15 Ely Place, Dublin 2
Doheny and Nesbitt (traditional pub) 4-5 baggot street lower


Tour of Croke Park
The Winding Stair (good for sunset) 40 Lower Ormond Quay, Dublin 1, Ireland
Hugh Lane Gallery (art) Parnell Square North
Charelmont House, Parnell Square N, Dublin 1, Ireland
Chapter One (dinner reservation for 8pm) 19 Parnell Square N, Dublin 1, Ireland


Zimmern family fun

Kellys Hotel

Check-out (7:00 AM – 12:00 PM)

Duration:​​ 7 days


Botanic Gardens
Crown Liquor Saloon
City Hall


Fairhead (cliff view!)


Kinbane Farmhouse B&B
85 Whitepark Road
Co. Antrim
BT54 6LP



Carrick-a-Rede (footbridge) 119a White Park Road, BT54 6LS
Bushmills Distillery
Giants causeway


Coopershill House, Riverstown, Co Sligo


Rossnowlagh beach
Drumcliff – Yeats (slieve bloom)
Ascend Knocknarea
Kylemore Abbey

Park House Hotel, Forster Street, Eyre Squre, Galway

St. Nicholas’ Collegiate Church-Galway Market (Church Lane; galwaymarket.com), Sheridans Cheesemongers (14-16 Churchyard Street; 353-91-564-829; sheridanscheesemongers.com)​


Hall of the Red Earl (free; Druid Lane; galwaycivictrust.ie)
Spanish Arch
Galway City Museum (free; Spanish Parade; 353-91-532-460; galwaycitymuseum.ie)
Ard Bia at Nimmos (Spanish Arch, Long Walk; 353-91-561-114; ardbia.com)
Town Hall Theater (Courthouse Square; 353-91-569-777; tht.ie)
Druid Theater Company Druid Lane Theater (Druid Lane; 353-91-568-660; druid.ie)
Crane Bar (2 Sea Road; 353-91-587-419; cranebar.com) over the River Corrib to the West End “down the west”
Backstage Bar at Monroe’s Live (Dominick Street; 353-87-978-3245; monroes.ie).
“the prom” — a seaside promenade providing views across Galway Bay to the rugged landscape of the Burren and leading into Salthill, a resort area past its prime but now dotted with hip bars popping up among the fading casinos.
– the Oslo for pint of locally brewed porter at (Upper Salthill; 353-91-448-390; winefoodbeer.com/oslo),
– the homey Black Cat for wine and jazz in a Georgian town house (179 Upper Salthill; 353-91-501-007; blackcat.ie). A few doors down, it’s soccer on the projector screen and Zlaty Bazant on tap at Krcma (163 Upper Salthill; 353-91-582-233; krcma.biz), a Slovak-owned pub and a gathering place for the central European population.

Aniar (dinner) 53 Lower Dominick Street; 353-91-535-947; aniarrestaurant.ie
Club Aras na nGael (social club) 45 Dominick Street; 353-91-567-824; cnag.ie


Kinvara fishing village
The Burren
The cliffs of mohar
Adare castle
1826 restaurant, Adare
Berkley Lodge B&B, adare

Butler Arms Hotel, Waterville


The old head of Kinsale
Butler House, 16 Patrick Street, Kilkenny


Reardens Bar on Washington Street (ask for Stuart Thompson friend of Winkles)




Unicorn food emporium for picnic
National gallery
Vintage cocktail club
NEDE (lunch or dinner) Meeting House Square, Sycamore St, Dublin 2, Ireland
Temple Bar Market in central Dublin, Silke Cropp sells her “Creemy” sheep cheese.
Forest Avenue (dinner) Ballsbridge – The space is inviting with an open, energetic kitchen as centerpiece and sturdy wood, soft fabrics, and pillowed banquettes that radiate a comfortable elan. Ingredient-driven dishes–like a salad of shaved asparagus, tangy capers, poached egg, radishes, and spring lettuce or a straightforward, elegant cod–shine on a constantly evolving tasting menu.

Murphy’s Ice Cream

Etto (lunch) – Etto may feel like a wine bar–a tiny, convivial space with white walls and neutral furniture–and offer a formidable selection of wines, but the real draw is the food under the direction of chef Barry Fitzgerald. At lunch, the meatball ragu and mozzarella sandwich was paired with tomato, fennel, and marjoram soup to produce a delightful combination of freshness and flavor. But Fitzgerald’s signature dish is fast becoming his ricotta and spinach malfatti, made with mousserons (delicate wild mushrooms), egg yolk, and sage butter.

Hot Stove, 38 Parnell Square West; 353-1-874-7778; thehotstove.ie. Dinner for two, without drinks or tip, is about 75 euros.

Hatch & Sons Irish Kitchen – Hatch & Sons Irish Kitchen, 15 St. Stephens Green; 353-1-661-0075;hatchandsons.co. Lunch for two, without drinks or tip, is about 20 euros. There’s sandwich bread and then there is blaa. This bread roll, made in Waterford, about 100 miles south of Dublin, was reportedly introduced to the town in the 17th century by Huguenot immigrants. The town is still making blaa — in fact, in November the European Union granted the blaa Protected Geographical Indication status — but it wasn’t until recently that you could find them outside Waterford.


American Airlines 291

Dublin (DUB) -August 3, 2014 08:55 AM
Travel Time : 7 h 35 m
New York (JFK) – August 3, 2014 11:30 AM

American Airlines 1451
New York (JFK) – August 3, 2014 02:30 PM
Travel Time : 3 h 30 m
Miami (MIA) – August 3, 2014 06:00 PM


A Trip Down MFA’s Memory Lane | Celebrating 75 Years in 36 Nica Hours

Susan Rubin is my favorite aunt, and she’s FABulous. MFA has always been this way. She calls me her first born. Ever since I was a kid, she caught my attention.  The globetrotter. The ringleader, bringing the family together with my uncle Mark, whether for sacred Passover seder on their Grove apartment balcony or down by the pool for a shlepy Sunday barbecue.  And those were the festivities on the home front.  Away, it was Snowmass at the ski-in, ski-out condo she’d arrange each winter, in front of the fireplace we’d gather after a day on the slopes – or in Susan’s case, shopping! – cooking dinner, being a family.  Our family.  The George Cinq?  I was welcome of course!  Crashed on the floor.  But what a floor it was. And those photos of the giraffes and lions, the printed kind, from far away lands and framed on her wall, a tribal fertility figure holding court on the floor below.  That’s my Susan. The memories flock, triangulate in layers behind her wings, spread as if guided by some invisible force fixed to the horizon. My blood like hers runs thick with wanderlust. It will always connect us. The thing is, it’s only part of why I love her so.

This past weekend a few of us gathered in Nicaragua at a magical place called Mukul Resort to celebrate her 75th birthday, and what a trip it was. We sipped Flor de Cana 25 yr in a tiny room, with wicker chairs for her and boyfriend Howard, passed out on hammocks on Manzanilla Beach while storms passed through with enterprising surfers in tow, dined by candlelight illuminating photos meticulously curated by cousin Stacie…  And laughed and laughed.  Hiking with cousin David, biking with Mom, the agony of World Cup defeat and the exhilaration of soccer pick up games, ages 9 to 33 welcome.  And did I mention hot meals on both my internet-booked flights?!  More memories, all love, and forever traveling her way.  Always my Susan.


A Dash of Bitters, Please.

An excerpt of yesterday’s The Cypress Room cocktail post on The Genuine Kitchen, particularly enjoyable to write (and further edit.)


Vesper — The Cocktails of The Ritz Paris, a new-old book with darling illustrations by Yoko Ueta, was recently acquired from the library of Ryan Goodspeed. In it, Colin Peter Field delves into the origin of classic cocktails which turns out is no simple feat (“the difficulty in finding the truth about a cocktail.”) The provenance of the Bloody Mary alone proves quite a colorful, eye-opening appetizer – er, amuse – thanks to excerpts from Hemingway’s own letters to his friendly barman, Bernie.

Yes, there is a common thread to cocktail creation myth — we find a professional behind the bar and a discerning customer in front of it, with requests. Nothing screams classic like James Bond, and this is no better exemplified than in the very real cocktail attributed to this fictional character and his creator. The story goes that our dapper secret agent in the 1953 novel Casino Royale and The Vesper’s immaculate conception.

“A dry martini,” [Bond] said. “One. In a deep champagne goblet.”

“Oui, monsieur.”

“Just a moment. Three measures of Gordon’s, one of vodka, half a measure of Kina Lillet. Shake it very well until it’s ice-cold, then add a large thin slice of lemon peel. Got it?”

“Certainly, monsieur.” The barman seemed pleased with the idea.

“Gosh, that’s certainly a drink,” said Leiter.

Bond laughed. “When I’m…er…concentrating,” he explained, “I never have more than one drink before dinner. But I do like that one to be large and very strong and very cold and very well-made. I hate small portions of anything, particularly when they taste bad. This drink’s my own invention. I’m going to patent it when I can think of a good name.”

—Ian Fleming, Casino Royale, Chapter 7, “Rouge et Noir”

Fleming continues with Bond telling the barman, after taking a long sip, “Excellent … but if you can get a vodka made with grain instead of potatoes, you will find it still better,” and then adds in an aside, “Mais n’enculons pas des mouches (English: But let’s not bugger flies—a vulgar French expression meaning “let’s not split hairs”). Bond in the next chapter, “Pink Lights and Champagne”, names it the Vesper, at the time of his first introduction to the beautiful Vesper Lynd. A Vesper differs from Bond’s usual cocktail of choice, the martini, in that it uses both gin and vodka, Kina Lillet instead of the usual dry vermouth, and a lemon peel instead of an olive.

“The Vesper is part of my new gin thing,” Michael explains. “They are balanced and dry and pretty powerful. I like mine shaken, which makes for a crisp, more chilled result. Mellows it a bit, but not too much! I even ask for a dash of Bergamot bitters to be added.”